Backpacking to Velma Lake in the Desolation Wilderness

Travel StoriesTrails Peaks and Waterfalls

Aug 15

*Desolation Wilderness, Lake Tahoe, California*

Located near South Lake Tahoe, Desolation Wilderness offers incredible options to get into the backcountry and away from the crowds. We had planned to do a figure eight type hike and hit a bunch of backcountry lakes, but mosquitoes, lost trails and blisters made for a few modifications. Regardless of the change in plans, it was an incredible backpacking experience. Forewarning, this beautiful hike resulted in a lot of photos to share with you, but stick around until the end to see the incredible night sky!

Fannette Island, Emerald Bay, Lake Tahoe, California

We started at the Bayview trailhead, just above Emerald Bay. The area was crowded with sightseers and day hikers, but we were able to catch a beautiful view of Emerald Bay filled with summer boaters from the overlook. A few hundred feet up on the trail, we caught another view of Emerald Bay, allowing for an even more beautiful vantage point.

After about a mile into the hike, we arrived at Granite Lake. The destination of many day hikers, Granite Lake was full of families having lunch and teenagers pondering a dip in the frigid water.

*Granite Lake, Desolation Wilderness, Lake Tahoe, California*

Just beyond Granite Lake, after what felt like a million switchbacks, we reached the saddle of Maggie’s Peak and caught our last glimpse of the expansive Lake Tahoe and the populated town of South Lake Tahoe.

*Granite Lake and Lake Tahoe, California*

The next mile took us along some beautiful mountains, still slightly snow covered.

*Dick’s Peak, Desolation Wilderness, Lake Tahoe, California*

*Rugged Trail, Desolation Wilderness, Lake Tahoe, California*

At some point we lost the official trail and wound our way over rocks and streams following the water towards the lower lakes.

*Desolation Wilderness, Lake Tahoe, California- note the bugs in the upper middle frame*

*Upper Velma Lake, Desolation Wilderness, Lake Tahoe, California*

We ended up alongside beautiful Upper Velma Lake. We had intended to spend the night at Fontanallis Lake, a higher elevation lake, but after consulting Photo Pills for Milky Way planning, we decided to set up camp at Upper Velma.

The day had been hot and we were covered in sweat and bug spray. Forrest couldn’t resist taking a quick swim in the lake while I set up camp and explored. The area was covered with wildflowers and a stream flowing from a waterfall above and filling the lake.

*Swimming in Upper Velma Lake, Desolation Wilderness, Lake Tahoe, California*

*Our backcountry campsite at Upper Velma Lake, Desolation Wilderness, Lake Tahoe, California*

*The water source of Upper Velma Lake, Desolation Wilderness, Lake Tahoe, California*

*Indian Paintbrush at Upper Velma Lake, Desolation Wilderness, Lake Tahoe, California*

*Wildflowers in sunlight at Upper Velma Lake, Desolation Wilderness, Lake Tahoe, California*

*Setting sun at Upper Velma Lake, Desolation Wilderness, Lake Tahoe, California*

As the sun started to set and the bugs became more vicious, we made dinner and watched the sky change. Clouds began to roll in, causing me to temporarily panic for my planned night sky shooting. But, as always in the mountains, the weather changes by the second. I varied between long exposures and traditional shooting as the setting sun kissed the distant mountain peak.

*Long Exposure clarifies the reflection at Upper Velma Lake, Desolation Wilderness, Lake Tahoe, California*

*Cloud filled sky at Upper Velma Lake, Desolation Wilderness, Lake Tahoe, California*

*Sunset at Upper Velma Lake, Desolation Wilderness, Lake Tahoe, California*

We eventually lost the battle with the bugs and retreated to the tent for a game of Rummy while we waited for astronomical twilight to end. Fortunately, The North Face had just replaced our tent under warranty and our new tent was just a little bit taller allowing us to sit up during the game! Around 10 pm, the sky was full of stars and it was time to shoot again. Fortunately, many of the clouds had cleared and continued to clear as I photographed the sky.

*Night sky at Upper Velma Lake, Desolation Wilderness, Lake Tahoe, California*

*Milky Way over Upper Velma Lake, Desolation Wilderness, Lake Tahoe, California*

*Our Campsite and the Milky Way over Upper Velma Lake, Desolation Wilderness, Lake Tahoe, California*

The birds woke us the next morning and we broke down camp and ate breakfast quickly, as it seemed the bugs had multiplied overnight. We had planned to finish the hike by hiking up to Fontanallis where we had intended to camp and then looping around to Eagle Lake to see the entire hike. Unfortunately, I had giant, open blisters on both heels and we decided to take the shorter route out so that I wouldn’t have to hike up the elevation on my heels.