A Vertical World: Our Via Ferrata Journey to Rifugio Alimonta via Bocchette Alte
After a truly memorable first day of our Dolomites adventure from Madonna di Campiglio to Rifugio Tuckett via the Sentiero Alfredo Benini, it was time to dive headfirst into the heart of the Brenta Dolomites. Today, Forrest and I were taking on one of the most iconic and exhilarating via ferratas in the range: the Via delle Bocchette Alte, with our sights set on the remote Rifugio Alimonta. This was the day we'd been anticipating, and it certainly delivered!
Bidding Farewell to Tuckett & The High Approach
We woke early at Rifugio Tuckett, eager for the day's challenge. After a quick, hearty breakfast and one last check of our gear, we stepped out into the crisp mountain air. The first part of our day involved a significant high-alpine approach, leaving Rifugio Tuckett and ascending towards the starting point of the Bocchette Alte. Returning to the Bocca del Tuckett - the mountain pass literally meaning the Mouth of Tuckett, the trail immediately gained elevation, weaving through rocky scree fields and patches of lingering snow. With each step, the Brenta's grandeur seemed to amplify, preparing us for the vertical world ahead.
The path from Rifugio Tuckett (2271 m/7451 ft) to the Bocca (Pass) del Tuckett (2648 m/8688 ft)
The Bocchette Alte: A Vertical Masterpiece
Then, it began. The Via delle Bocchette Alte is legendary for a reason. This wasn't a hike anymore; it was an intricate climb with the mountain itself. We traversed incredibly exposed ledges, sometimes just a few feet wide, with colossal drops stretching hundreds of meters below. The sensation of hanging, fully reliant on the steel cable and our trusty carabiners, was both humbling and exhilarating. We found ourselves navigating long, vertical ladder sections that seemed to climb endlessly into the sky, offering dizzying perspectives back down the route we'd just ascended. Every handhold, every foothold, became a conscious decision. The route continuously surprised us βhow paths were carved into seemingly impassable rock faces, leading us through and around dramatic pinnacles. The effort was immense, but the panoramic vistas were beyond words; we were moving through a world of rock and sky, with the Brenta's iconic spires rising all around us.
Climbers on one of the Bocchette Alte ladder sections
Forrest and I making our way up a ladder section
Forrest and I climbing down a rock wall section
Scenes from Forrestβs GoPro β the secret to getting me in front of the camera? Put me on a climb that needs both hands.
High-Alpine Haven: Rifugio Alimonta
After hours of intense focus and breathtaking climbs, we finally reached our haven for the night: Rifugio Alimonta. Perched in a truly remote and spectacular location, this hut immediately felt like a haven in the mountains. We dropped our heavy packs, peeled off our boots, found our bunks, and then, the best part β simply being outside the hut and looking back at where we had come from. The atmosphere was incredible. Fellow hikers, fresh off their own challenging routes, mingled, sharing stories, exchanging tips, and reveling in the shared accomplishment of being so deep in the mountains. There was a palpable sense of camaraderie, a unique bond forged by the day's vertical journey.
Rifugio Alimonta, 2580 m/8465 ft
The Via delle Bocchette Alte via ferrata runs on the back and topside of the peaks on the middle to left. From the right of the glacier begins the Via Ferrata Bocchette Centrali (tomorrowβs goal!)
Nature's Spectacle: Sunset & Milky Way
As the sun began its descent, the already stunning landscape around Rifugio Alimonta transformed, igniting in brilliant color and light as the sun dipped behind the peaks in the distance. The sight of the setting sun blazing above the jagged horizon, casting long shadows across the valleys and highlighting the contours of the distant mountains, was utterly captivating.
Sunset at Rifugio Alimonta. The lift on the lower right provides the rifugio with supplies.
As darkness deepened and the last hues of light faded, the sky above Rifugio Alimonta turned into an astronomer's paradise. Far from any light pollution, the Milky Way unfurled across the inky blackness, a dazzling band of stars so bright it felt like you could reach out and touch it. It was a profound and humbling experience, seeing the galaxy stretch across the very peaks we were climbing.
Milky Way over the Brenta Alps from Rifugio Alimonta
Morning Magic: Cloud Inversion Sunrise
And just when we thought the views couldn't get any better, the morning brought another jaw-dropping spectacle. We woke before dawn, bundled up, and stepped outside. Below us, the valleys were completely filled with a soft, ethereal sea of clouds β a stunning cloud inversion. As the sun gently kissed the horizon, the sky above turned into a canvas of delicate pastels: soft pinks, pale blues, and subtle yellows. It was a serene and almost surreal start to the day, watching the sun rise above this fluffy white ocean, the peaks of the Dolomites emerging like islands. These tranquil moments, after the intensity of the climbs, felt like pure magic.
Dawn cloud inversions are one of my favorite things about high mountain huts
Sunlight begins to kiss the surrounding peaks as the sun rises higher.
Our night at Rifugio Alimonta, bookended by these incredible celestial and atmospheric displays, was truly unforgettable. It perfectly capped off a demanding but endlessly rewarding day on the Bocchette Alte. However, the adventure didn't end with a gentle descent. To continue our traverse, we faced another significant challenge: a return ascent of the same high mountain pass we had descended to reach the rifugio the previous day. This steep, rocky climb was our gateway to the next thrilling section, the Via Ferrata Centrali, which would lead us to Rifugio Pedrotti. The air grew thinner as we climbed, and the vast, barren rock walls of the pass seemed to funnel the wind, reminding us of the raw power of the mountains. It was a tough but necessary climb, marking our transition deeper into the heart of the Brenta Dolomites.
Rifugio Alimonta sits in a glacial amphitheater of the Vedretta degli Armi, surrounded by the Torre di Brenta, Cima degli Armi, Cima Molveno and Gemelli.
Niniβs Bell and the Rifugio Alimonta
The pass to begin Bocchette Centrali, just above the glacier
Stay tuned for the next post, as we continue our high-alpine traverse through the Brenta Dolomites!